I
Introduction
The saree is among the oldest garments still in daily use, and arguably the most adaptable.
In this journal, Rozmeen Bhai considers the classic weaves and drapes, and the art of wearing them with a contemporary sensibility: respectful of tradition, never confined by it.
“Six yards of tradition, worn as though they were woven this morning.
II
The Classic Drape
- Nivi. Front pleats, pallu over the left shoulder. Popularized in the late nineteenth century, it remains the definitive drape for weddings and festivals.
- Seedha pallu. The Gujarati style, in which the pallu is brought forward over the right shoulder so that its border may be admired.
- The great weaves. Banarasi brocade from Varanasi, Kanjeevaram silk from Tamil Nadu, and the Bandhani and Patola of Gujarat.
III
The Modern Hand
- A fine belt. A slender metal or embroidered belt over the pallu lends structure and defines the waist.
- A considered blouse. A high neck, a long sleeve or a crisp shirt collar can make an older saree feel newly considered.
- Tailored layers. A cropped jacket or a long cape, for winter evenings.
- Lighter cloth. Chiffon, georgette and organza, which move beautifully by daylight.
IV
On Contrast
The most accomplished looks observe a simple rule: one gesture from tradition, one from the present. An heirloom Banarasi with an austere black blouse; a plain georgette with serious traditional jewelry. Restraint is what allows the cloth to speak.
V
Care
- Silk is a living fibre and rewards attention. Dry-clean silk and zari, or hand-wash gently in cold water.
- Wrap each saree in muslin, never plastic, so the cloth can breathe.
- Refold every few months, so the creases do not weaken the silk.
VI
The Author
Rozmeen Bhai is a business-minded woman and mother who champions education, the advancement of women and giving back. A saree lover, home cook, fitness enthusiast and skier. More at rozmeenbhai.com.